DIY 24″ Plyometric Box

January 16, 2013 1 Comment

(This box jump photo is a little weird with four legs in the frame!!) At any rate, this post for a DIY 24″ Plyo Box has been in my queue and it’s about time I post it.

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

I have to be honest: I don’t love box jumps. I don’t. I get frustrated when I fail to get in a jumping rhythm by my third consecutive jump. But, I do love how it gets my heart rate up faster than a cheetah on crack. Plus, the movement transfers well to my sports and it gives the equivalent of a Brazilian bedonkadonk lift.

I can’t take full credit for this DIY. It was inspired by a variety of plans floating around the interweb, like this one HERE. This plan is nothing new, I’ve just merely tried to put it in an easily understandable format. There are two versions of the plyo, the rectangular type that can be turned on different sides for different heights, or the “tapered” kind I have here. The rectangular kinds are a bit more bulky, heavier, and less structurally sound (so I hear) but they are easier to build. The type featured here requires beveling for a structurally sound plyo box and it’s easier to handle (although it cannot be used at varying heights.) Special thanks to this guy for all the help and advice.

(Here is the usual disclaimer. DIY at your own risk. I am not responsible for any injuries (or death?) acquired by following the content of this post.) Now, let’s DO THIS!!

(Download the printable PDF of materials and equipment here.) Materials and equipment needed:

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

 

I recommend using a table saw for this project. I don’t have the garage space for a table saw (or the liberal budget) but I was able to rent one from a community tool library. You can search Tool Libraries in your state here. Boulder, CO has an awesome one that we frequent.

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

DIRECTIONS:

  1. Set your saw blade at a 10 degree angle and cut your sheet of plywood along the horizontal midline (refer to diagram below.)
  2. Now bevel cut, at the same 10 degree angle, the remaining long edges (corresponding to the tops and bottoms of each piece.) NOTE: Bevel cut each edge at the same angle and same perspective. If you mess this part up, you’re screwed. :)

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

3.  Reset your blade back to 90 degrees (straight up and down) and make the cuts for the sides of each piece. You should now have 4 sides of your box with ONLY the top and bottom edges beveled.

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

4. Use a jigsaw to drill holes for handles, if desired.

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

5. Now that we have all four sides of our plyo box, assemble it.  Make sure you are on a level surface and using some clamps, ensure that the sides fit snugly together.  (If they don’t, now is the time to sand off any parts that are keeping it from fitting tightly.) Place a bead of wood glue along the two edges that are to be joined and glue the sides together.

6. Predrill your holes with the 3/8” wood drill bit. You’ll want to predrill so that the plywood does not split when you screw the sides together.

7. Using the wood screws, screw into the predrilled holes until tight (don’t overtighten or the wood may split.)

8. Continue for all sides of the remaining pieces.

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

9. Now we can cut out the top. I saved this part for last to ensure that I get an exact size for the top and that the box is stable enough. Flip the partially completed box upside down on the remaining sheet of plywood.  Trace out the size and shape of the top.

10. Set the blade angle back to 10 degrees and cut out the top. Make sure your saw blade is cutting “into” the wood while you follow your drawn lines so that the edges of the top slant inward.

11. Assemble the top by placing a bead of wood glue around the edge where it will contact the sides and glue the top to the box.

12. Using the 3/8″ drill bit, pre-drill at least 3 holes on each side and screw the top in place with wood screws.

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell)

13. Sand it down with a sander! Pay special attention to all the edges and the handles unless you like splinters.

14. You can now varnish or paint your plyo box and even place a rubber mat on the top.

Done! Jump around! Jump around! Jump up, jump up, and get down.

-jess

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DIY Slosh Pipe

January 9, 2012 8 Comments

Greetings from Keystone, CO! I would be out snowboarding but, honestly, riding down ice is so played out (personal opinion here) and sitting in one of their village cafes while blogging sounds more fun. Speaking of fun, what’s the most fun you can have while working out your core and getting the neighbors to think you’ve lost your DIY marbles? It starts with “slosh” and ends with “pipe.” (Mom, if you’re reading… a “slosh pipe” has nothing to do with smoking pot.)

"Fun" is Zercher carrying a slosh pipe

At rescue practice, they tell us (as 6 of us carry a 200 lb litter down a mountain,) “If you’re not working hard, you’re not working hard enough.” So as difficult as a slosh pipe is to carry, I question whether I’m working out hard enough because half my grunts are actually girly glee giggles.

A slosh pipe is a 3-4″ diameter and 8-10′ long PVC pipe filled with water. Any deviation from completely centered sends a little bit of water, then a lotta bit of water, then the whole dang pipe full of water sloshing (get it?) to one side. Good luck keeping those obliques contracted. Even more luck to you trying to get back to centered only to have all the water slosh to the other side. Things get complicated when you start to walk with the slosh pipe because it’s practically impossible NOT to deviate from centered. Anyone able to do otherwise could probably land a high paying job with the circus.

Things start to get really complicated when you try to step forward and down into a lunge. They say you can use a slosh pipe for the same exercises you use a barbell for. But, for the record, I have not attempted to bench press a pipe full o’ sloshing water over my face nor have I attempted anything overhead. I’m just not there yet. (Full disclosure… I dig it.)

I mean, seriously, I haven’t had THIS much fun since Zumba!!! And you can make a slosh pipe for cheaper than dinner and a movie. Giggles and fun with 5 ingredients for less than $30… I’m making this slosh pipe deal sound like a cheap date. But, really, who doesn’t like a cheap date?

Here’s how:
(Here is my DIY Slosh Pipe printable PDF)

WANT SOME TIPS?
1.  If you have petite hands, go for a 3″ diameter PVC pipe. ;)

2. You could build this using hard plastic end caps for both ends. However, the rubber end cap with adjustable steel clamp will allow you to easily pop that end off and adjust the water levels whenever you want.

3. If you live in cold temperatures, add some salt to the water so it doesn’t freeze in your pipe.

4. Don’t sniff the PVC cement.


WANT TO READ MORE ABOUT SLOSH PIPES?
T-Nation’s “Sloshing Pillar of Pain” by Dan John – HERE.
Mark Sisson’s “Build Your Own Slosh Tube” – HERE
Common Sense Warrior’s “Build Your Own Slosh Pipe” by Mike Norris – HERE


HOW ABOUT SOME DISCLAIMERS:
DIY at your own risk. I am not responsible for injury that you may incur as a result of following these building plans nor am I responsible for any injury, or death for that matter, that may result from using a slosh pipe.

Special thanks to Ryan for helping me navigate Home Depot and for taking the time to help photograph.

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DIY Weight Tree

September 20, 2011 8 Comments

I knew when we scored 490 pounds worth of iron plates that we couldn’t just throw them on the garage floor. Because if there’s anything worse than squeezing my feet into a pair of anatomically taxing stilettos, it would be squeezing a broken toe into an already anatomically taxing pair of stilettos. (And considering that I do, on occasion, literally walk into barbells, I wouldn’t put it past me to NOT stub my toe walking into haphazardly placed 45lb plates.)

The solution: A weight tree.

And because I’m a visual learner, I put together this visual shopping list of tools required and a lumber cut list. Click HERE to download the PDF because it’s easier to just print out and take to Home Depot – yay, shopping!

BUT (!) before I dive into explaining how to make a weight tree let me just take a moment to lay down this obligatory disclaimer. (Hey, I grew up in sue-happy Cali so I know the deal.)

Neither I, the author of posts on Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell), nor Ryan (the designer of this DIY weight tree) shall be held accountable for loss, damage, injury or death that may arise as a result of following these plans. It is your responsibility to know how to operate these tools and your responsibility to ensure the safety of the equipment that you make. DIY at your own risk.

Let’s get this party started!

STEP #1: CUT THE 2X4 LUMBER AND DOWELS INTO APPROPRIATE SIZES
Use the cut list on the PDF provided. Important: If you are making the cuts yourself, Make sure to measure each length AFTER you make a cut to account for blade thickness. Otherwise, each piece will end up being a little short.

Girl Walks Into A Bar(bell) Tip: If you do not have access to a saw, the employees at Lowe's and/or Home Depot can make the cuts for you. Sometimes they charge.

 

STEP #2: DRILL HOLES FOR THE DOWELS IN THE VERTICAL SUPPORTS
The (2) 37″ pieces will be the vertical supports.

In both 37″ pieces, drill a hole 7 1/2″ from the top and a second hole 22 1/2″ from the top using the 1 1/4″ spade bit/auger.

 

The 37″ pieces should now look like this:

STEP #3: ASSEMBLE TOP OF WEIGHT TREE.
Now take the 3 1/2″ square piece of 2×4. Using the auger, bore a hole approx 3/4″ deep (not all the way through!) in the center of this piece.

Insert the 8″ long dowel into the center.

Secure with a screw through the bottom.

Set this piece aside for later assembly. It will be the top of the weight tree where you can store small plates and spring collars. It should look like this:

STEP #4: ASSEMBLE THE BASE SUPPORTS
Mark the center of the (2) 24 1/2″ pieces where the (2) 6″ pieces will be connected (see picture below.)

Use the bar clamps to hold the 6″ piece to the 24 1/2″ piece and, with a 1/8″ drill bit, drill pilot holes through the 24 1/2″ piece and into the 6″ piece. (This is a pretty important step – failure to drill pilot holes may result in splitting the edge of the wood.)

Unclamp, add wood glue to the edge of the 6″ pieces, reclamp it to the 24 1/2″ piece, like it was before.

Drill (2) 2″ wood screws through pilot holes of the 24 1/2″ piece and into the 6″ piece.

Repeat for the other base support pieces.

STEP #5: ASSEMBLE VERTICAL SUPPORT STRUCTURE
Place the remaining 3 1/2″ square 2×4 piece between the two 37″ pieces.  The bottom of the 3 1/2″ piece should be 2 1/2″ from the bottom of the 37″ pieces.

Very important: Use a square to square up! You don’t want the vertical supports of a weight tree looking like the leaning tower of pisa.

Clamp these pieces with a bar clamp and drill (2) pilot holes with a 1/8″ drill bit through each 37″ piece and into the 3 1/2″ piece.

Unclamp, apply wood glue to each contact point, reclamp, and drill wood screws into the pilot holes of the 37″ pieces and into the 3 1/2″ piece.

Remember that other 3 1/2″ square piece with the 8″ dowel at the top? Attach it to top of these 37″ pieces such that the top of the 3 1/2″ square is flush with the tops of the 37″ pieces. Remember to clamp, drill pilot holes, unclamp, add glue, reclamp, and screw!

The last part of the vertical support assembly is to add the dowels. Tap the 17 1/2″ dowel through the top holes of the 37″ pieces and the 18 1/2″ dowel through the bottom holes.

(Kinda important: If the dowels won’t go in the holes (I’m going to pretend that doesn’t sound perverted), you’ll want to use the auger to widen the holes. Careful! Just bore through a little at a time because if you make the holes TOO big, the dowels will just slide through and that’s not very safe when it comes to big iron plates. But, let’s say you “accidentally” bored the holes too wide, drill a pilot hole through the the side of the 37″ vertical support and into the dowel so that it doesn’t slide around.

The vertical support should now look like this:

STEP #6: ATTACH VERTICAL SUPPORT TO BASE
Center the vertical support assembled in the previous step between the two horizontal base pieces.

Clamp and drill (2) pilot holes through each contact point of the base and into the vertical support. Make sure the structure is level at this point and that it does not rock or move excessively at this point.

Unclamp, add glue, reclamp, add screws!

And that’s it! Unclamp and admire your handiwork. Paint it up or stain it to your liking.

This weight tree was inspired by various people on the CrossFit.com forums and was designed by Ryan Decker. Total cost will be sub $20 (if you have all the tools) and around $35 if you buy drill bits, screws, and augers. Not too shabby.

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